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Zurich: Caduff's Wine Loft

Caduff's Wine Loft
Kanzleistrasse 126
CH-8004 Zürich

Date of Last Visit: Friday, June 26th

The Victim: Former London restaurant blogger Howard

The Damage: A lot. It was all in Swiss Francs so honestly, I have no idea.

The Background: You remember Howard, right? Howard of Food & Drink in London? Well, he's moved to Zurich, Switzerland. And I needed to be in Switzerland for a wedding that required all sorts of planes, trains and automobiles to get to, so I figured I'd fly to Zurich on Friday night, have dinner with Howard, and then head to Bellinzona on Saturday. A good plan.

Howard has chosen the restaurant. He's also on-call for work for the evening, which I'm a bit worried about. What if I end up eating alone? Defeats the whole purpose of the pit-stop, no? Luckily, I needn't have worried.

The Entrance: Caduff's is large and airy and light during the daylight. Once the sun goes down, it gets really really dark in the restaurant. Practically only candle light. Really. It was very dark. We're shown a table in the back corner and I start to eavesdrop on the very international crowd while we start looking things over.

 

The Weinkeller: Caduff's is famous for it's Weinkeller. I forget how many bottles they boast, but it's a lot. Our server sends us downstairs to pick our bottle. Now this is fun. Lots of dusty bottles lying around, and a very nice and very multi-lingual host to help us out. Howard is up for spending some cash. I'm not, and I think he will remain forever disappointed in me because of this. Sorry, Howard. We eventually agree on a half bottle of something I can't remember. (I am trying to take it easy because I have to get up at the crack o'dawn the next day. And we've already had a beer at my hotel and then aperitifs at the restaurant. And we're getting something by the glass for our starter. And I just know already that there will definitely be a dessert wine.)

The Starters: See how dark the restaurant is getting? That's a very generous portion of scallops with a lot of breadcrumbs (which you can't see) covered in summer truffles. Lots of summer truffles this month. The scallops are large. But they taste a little old or maybe just a little overcooked. Also, I kinda think the presentation is a bit 1980s roadside inn. Some sort of clamshell on a bed of sea salt. Hmm. It's good. I suppose.

The Mains: Howard and I get the same thing...pigeon wrapped in cabbage served on ratatouille. This is a hugely generous portion. I end up giving half of my pigeon to Howard, it's so big. And the pigeon isn't as tender as I imagined it being. It's tough. Not dry. But not tender. And there's so much ratatouille. I am a little overwhelmed. I take a disliking to the cabbage wrapped around the pigeon. I sorta regret my order and wish I had opted for the vegetarian pasta something or other instead.

The Verdict: This is probably a good place for one of those work dinners where you have to entertain 10 people from 10 countries. The Weinkeller alone is pretty cool. Food-wise, I applaud the restaurant's "local, seasonal" ethos, but taste wise...eh. Not for me. That being said, it was great to see Howard again. I THINK I may have convinced him to start a Zurich restaurant blog. He takes such awesome photos and is an excellent writer. Don't you think he should?

Eastside Inn Bistro

Eastside Inn
38-42 St John Street
EC1M 4AY

Date of Last Visit: Saturday, June 13th, 2009

The Victims: Rutton, Al

The Damage: About £40ish each?

The Background: If you fiddle with a food blog, never Twitter where you're going for dinner. Because before you know it, you might end up Twitter-friends with the chef's brother or something. And the chef's brother might tell the chef that you're coming and the chef might drop by your table to say hi and then the chef's wife might drop by the table to say hi too and then you might just fall in love with them both because they're both so nice and you want their new place to be just as successful as they are nice.

So be careful, you know?

The Entrance: I am the first, as always. Rutton is on a bus on the other side of town. Like Westbourne Grove. (Tube troubles, he tells me at the time. But when arrives, he elaborates about running into our friends Dev & Connie at Baker Street on the way and how he just had to have a beer with them.) While I'm waiting for Al, I joke with one of the servers about the review of Eastside Inn in that week's Time Out. That's my server there in the picture. Or at least, my first server. Because after placing my drink order and asking for some tap water, someone else asks me if I'd like to order a drink. And then a little while later--while I'm still waiting for that drink--a third person asks if I'd like a drink. I feel very looked after. But it is a little like Groundhog's Day. (The movie.)

With the boys running a bit behind (Al wasn't THAT late--maybe 7 minutes), I order some snacks. And this endears me to the Eastside Inn immediately. Proper little snacks. Some radishes, served with butter and sea salt. Some very good olives, and some goats cheese and toast. We end up combining the radishes with the goats cheese. A nice combination.

The Starters: Chef Bjorn tells us about his specials...there's what I keep calling Kalbskopf in my head but I suppose you'd call veal head? Calf's head? I forget what Bjorn calls it. Served cold in a carpaccio-like way. And then there's a roast chicken for two. Rutton confuses our server completely by ordering the veal to start and then placing two orders for the chicken, one for him and one for Al. I clear it all up. For me, it's squid to start and the calf's head as my main.

I like the flavors in the squid, which are mixed up with peppers and a nice zesty vinaigrette. The squid seems a little chewy but maybe I need to eat more squid to figure out how chewy is too chewy for fresh squid. (I do think I've eaten a lot of squid. See my About page.) The only thing is...it just seems a little messy, there in its bowl. Like it should be more organized, more neatly piled. Hmmm.

The Mains: Next up is my calf's head, which is a heartier dish than I had imagined. (I obviously was not paying attention while Rutton was polishing off his as a starter.) This is a pretty generous portion. I like it. The veal is sturdy but soft, and it's a cooling dish on a warm day. Rutton and Al are digging into the chicken and they polish it off so quickly I don't even get to try it. I can only tell you that they like it. A lot.

The Wine List: The bistro wine menu is very abbreviated. There's a Torrontes on it, which I'm familiar with after passing the Wine & Spirits Education Trust Exam. (I'd suggest some tasting notes for the bistro menu, personally. And while CdR might clearly mean Côtes du Rhône to me, it means nothing to the average punter.) After some discussion, we end up asking for the wine list from next door, and then the very patient sommelier talks us through some options. (Now if only I could remember what we selected!) Later I'm thrilled to discover they actually will sell by the carafe, as we're not really ready to polish off a second bottle. (I swear that during our meal, the unsteady and uncommunicative couple next to us polish off two bottles of wine between the two of them, but maybe I am just imagining things.)

The Atmosphere: If I were to go back, I'd grab a space at the counter, which overlooks the kitchen directly. I'm a sucker for show kitchens. Decor-wise, I don't know...something was missing. Or maybe the lights were too bright. Or maybe we were just sitting too far up front. When I think "bistro," I think cozy. There's a modern-y newness to the bistro side of the the Eastside Inn that could use some warming up. 

The Verdict: I thought the bistro side of the Eastside Inn was good. I'd give it another shot, for the warmth and enthusiasm of Bjorn and Justine alone.

Dinings

Dinings
22 Harcourt Street
W1H 4HH

Date of Last Visit: Thursday, June 25, 2009

The Victims: Craig, Leann, Mikaela, Jen

The Damage: About £40 each

The Background: Craig is my sushi buddy. It started many years ago, at Kurumaya in the city. A great little place that you should really visit. (Even the skeptics on London-Eating.co.uk like it.) (Get a booking for downstairs.) Last summer, Craig invited me along to check out Matsuri St. James. For some odd reason, I still haven't taken him to Pham. One of these days. Anyhow, Dinings was next on our list.

 

The Entrance: Dinings is small. Very small. Much smaller than I expected. We're shown downstairs to a small room that we end up sharing with that one other table in the photo. It's perfect, really. Although it's a bit hot. Just a bit.

The Service: Exceptional. I had run into our server the previous weekend at Taste of London--she was working the Dinings booth--but she had no recollection of me whatsoever. Before we figured this part out, I asked for a run-down of her favorites. Total enthusiasm for and great knowledge of the menu. She was so good, I asked her to do the whole thing again when the rest of our party arrived. Some might have found this annoying. But she obliged. And it was even better than the first time.



The Food: We followed all our server's recommendations and the food just kept coming.  We started with the seabass carpaccio with truffle salsa and ponzu sauce. Lovely. Clean. But my absolute favorites were grilled eel and foie gras maki with summer truffle and the pork belly. The pork belly! Really, the pork belly.



The Verdict: I liked it here. A lot. Nice service. Really interesting menu. This is not a California rolls kind of place. Really great food. Not cheap though.

£1.50 Old Street Station Breakfast

The Cafe in Old Street Tube
Old Street Tube Station
London, EC1

Date of Last Visit: Many

The Victim: Me and my co-workers. Females, mostly.

The Damage: £1.50, numerous times over.

The Background: After all the controversy the other day, how about something simple? Something cheap. Healthy. Tasty. Yes: Today I bring you Old Street Station's £1.50 yogurt, fruit and nut cup.

Here's how it started...A few weeks ago, all the girls in my office were talking about the "amazing" fruit and yogurt cup at the weird take-away in Old Street tube. For £1.50, they told me, you get a whole lotta yogurt. And a whole lotta fruit. And nuts! Some nuts too. Less money than a Pret Pot, and about three times the size.

I had to experience this yogurt cup of magnificence for myself. So I dropped into Old Street tube one morning before work the other week.

And there they were, lined up across the countertop. The unrefrigerated countertop, but presumably they hadn't been sitting out that long. I paid my £1.50 and off to work I went.

The Verdict: I thought the yogurt was okay. A tad warm, as I expected. It wasn't bad yogurt, but I think I like Pret's better. It was the fruit that got me. This was A LOT of fruit. And good fruit. Not just the cheap stuff. There were mangoes in here. And strawberries and grapes and blueberries and God knows what else. Sometimes it was hard to tell, given how globbed up it all was with yogurt. The nuts were peanuts. Added a nice crunch.

But the value? Can't beat it. Really, £1.50. Next time you're hanging out at Old Street tube in the early hours, get yourself one.

Morgan M, Plus Some Thoughts on Freebies

Morgan M
489 Liverpool Road
N7 8NS

Date of Last Visit: Wednesday, June 3rd

The Victims: Sarah, Gaby

The Damage: Gaby paid.

The Background: If you haven't noticed, I do like to eat.

But I like exploring more. Some of my favorite posts--the posts I really enjoy writing---are not the ones that are all about a dinner out.

I like the adventure posts. The getting-on-a-bus-and-going-somewhere posts. The something different posts. I enjoy a good day out, with multiple stops, some with food. Some without.

When I first started my blog, I borrowed a post from business writer Seth Godin about creating a blog disclosure statement and posted my own on my About page. My Disclosure Statement has gone through various iterations over the years. For a long time, it said something like "I will go out of my way NOT to write about things that other people want me to write about, except when there's a lot of champagne involved." And for somewhat of a shorter time, I removed my Disclosure Statement completely because I felt like I was violating it so utterly and completely.

Case in point. My friend Sarah runs a site for new moms in London. A month or two ago, she went to an event about women in business and met Gaby, who just happens to do PR for restaurants. Sarah says, "You must meet my friend Krista." Gaby knows my work and says something like, "Krista from Londonelicious? I'd love to." And we all arrange to meet up for lunch at Morgan M in Highbury, a place I've always wanted to go to. And a place that Gaby does PR for.

I like Gaby instantly. I want to help her understand bloggers and blogging and Twitter and all those good things. I like Morgan M instantly as well. It's peaceful and relaxing and a great "Ladies who Lunch" sort of place, and you know that I not-so-secretly wish that I were a lady who lunches. Instead, I'm a lady with a full-time job, an addiction to restaurants, and a train that leaves for Paris at 5 p.m. on a Wednesday.

The Entrance: I like how I'm met at the door of Morgan M. and how they take all my belongings away; I've come straight from work with a lot of stuff that I need to run home with after lunch and throw in a suitcase and turn around again and head back to Kings X with. (Are you still with me?)

I like the plates at Morgan M. They're pretty. And I like how while I'm waiting for Gaby and Sarah to arrive, the staff offer me my choice of good magazines. Not bad magazines. Good magazines. (I choose a travel magazine.)

I feel a little pressured to order the tasting menu, which is what Sarah and Gaby opt for. I am on a bit of a diet these days, and really I am not that hungry. Plus I'm heading to Paris and I know I have a multi-course dinner to look forward to. So with some negotiation, I manage to secure just two courses (plus an amuse-bouche) to Sarah and Gaby's five courses (plus amuse-bouche). (Generally, Morgan M prefers that the entire table opt for the tasting menu, but I think I must have looked panic-stricken at the thought of a full menu, so they relaxed their restriction for me.)

The Conversation: After we order, we go back to talking about bloggers and London food and restaurant bloggers in particular. Gaby says that she's counted, and there's something like 70 of us these days. I note that she should start looking at the wine bloggers too because for a restaurant like Morgan M with such a nice wine list, I think she's got an additional market.

We talk about the real critics and I learn that although the big ones have budgets and pay-their-own-way, the smaller ones get everything comped. This makes me angry because here I am, paying my way for everything (or, well, nearly everything), and some of the pros actually get all their meals for free? But then, I get angry at myself; if I just went around London accepting freebies all the time, I'd kinda feel like somebody's mistress. All the nice things, but no respect in the morning... 

Jose Luis, Madrid

Jose Luis
C/Serrano 89-91
Madrid, Spain

Date of Last Visit: Sunday, June 7th and then again on Monday, June 8th, 2009

The Victims: Myself the first time. Fernando, Guillermo and William the second time.

The Damage: About 25 euros the first time, and unknown the second time because Fernando paid.

The Background: I had all these grand plans of having a big day out in Madrid on Sunday.

Until I figured out that getting to Spain takes a long time. A really long time.

Not sure how I missed that.

My flight was at 9:30 a.m. from Heathrow and we took off on time. I landed in Madrid around 1 p.m. and then my luggage came out around 1:40 p.m. By the time I bought my metro tickets and figured out where I was going, it was after 2 p.m. And by the time I checked into my hotel, it was nearly 3 p.m. So by the time I was ready to go anywhere, it was 5 p.m. (I squeezed in a quick workout at the hotel gym.)

So--worst possible time to eat in Madrid?

5 p.m.

Lunch is over and dinner won't start til 9:30 p.m. (10, really.) But it was 5 p.m. and I was STARVING. And so the hotel directed me to Jose Luis. And it was okay. Just okay. (I had the squid--a different squid than what I talk about below.)

And Even More Background: Now fast-forward to the next evening. My colleagues suggest taking me out to dinner. I say sure. And we start walking. And we're walking some more. And eventually I say, "Are we going to Jose Luis?"

And we are.

Really, what are the chances?

The Entrance: My waiter from the previous evening doesn't recognize me. I think this is a bit of a bummer. Even after we had this whole discussion where he said everything in Spanish and I said everything in English and we totally understood each other.

The Food: I put myself in the hands of my Spanish colleagues. (I don't mind someone else ordering for me when I've asked them to order for me.) And so the parade begins. The first dish of the night is the best dish, and it leave me with high hopes for Jose Luis. It's squid and the batter is great. Super great. And then there's some jamon serrano, roughly cut. It's pretty darn good too. And the manchego cheese. I have no complaints. We've started this meal on a high note.

But then the pulpo arrives. And it looks great, with great big chunks of octopus. But it's not so good. It's tough and chewy. Poor reviews from around the table...my Spanish colleagues apologize to me for it.

 

The Pimientos de Padron arrive, and they look like they've been through a lot, just to get here. They're okay. But they seem slightly overcooked. And I like them with a bit of rock salt.

In between, there's some forgettable calamari (for which my colleagues, again, apologize) and then we have fun with Google Translate trying to figure out what this next dish is. It's cuttlefish. And it's chewy. But the garlicky mayonnaise is good.

The Verdict: There are lots of people who probably love this restaurant and give it rave reviews. I thought it was just okay. But the squid (the second time) was great.

Check out Taste of London Today...

No plans for today? Then get yourself to Taste of London. It goes until 5 p.m. this afternoon, Sunday, June 21st 2009.

Thanks to  The Guardian Word of Mouth Blog, myself and a few other London bloggers and tweeters were able to get a behind the scenes look at the festival and taste a number of amazing dishes. What impressed me most was the seasonality of so many of the offerings. I found myself saying over and over again, "This is a really summery dish." Second most impressive thing was the number of Chefs in attendance. That's Giorgio Locatelli himself at the Refettorio stand above. We also saw Gary Rhodes over at Rhodes 24, Tristan Welch at Launceston Place, and Shane Osborn at Pied a Terre. (Pied a Terre gave us a great overview of the type of fish they use and how to prepare it.)

I'm going to try to pick some of my favorite dishes--please rest assured that I didn't actually eat ALL of these--but I did share quite a few dishes with fellow London restaurant reviewers Chris from Cheese & Biscuits and Oliver from Thring for Your Supper. And I shared the rest with Jen, Leigh, Justine, and Leigh's parents.

#5. Cupcakes at Beas of Bloomsbury. We had a chocolate one with raspberry icing. Gorgeous chocolate cake. Really just gorgeous. And the raspberry icing managed to be more like a soft, light, foam. Again, summery.

#4. Arroz negro at Fino. Sorry for the slightly blurry photo. Chris or Oliver probably have better shots. This wasn't short on seafood--it was jam packed with it--and just had a lovely texture and aroma. This was also the absolute first thing I tried, so there's that...

#3. Fassone beef carpaccio with rocket salad from Ristorante Semplice. Earlier, I said that a lot of the dishes made me think summer, and this was really one of them. I'm not much of a beef eater, but the coolness and lightness of this dish had me converted. It also rocketed Semplice to the top of my to-do list. Manager Giovanni Baldino himself walked us through all of the dishes we tried, which was great. (We also sampled the Tagliatelli with Caporicci's summer truffle and broad beans, as well as the dessert of liquorice foam with bitter almond gelatine and salted almonds--which was really one of the most interesting dishes I've tried as of late, although maybe not entirely to my taste. Or at least, not to my taste when I'm standing around in a park. Might have been better at a table!)

Giovanni also took us behind the scenes at Semplice where I was able to snap these photos. (Honestly, I didn't really ask them to pose. They just did!) We were impressed by how spacious the prep area and cooking areas were.

#2. Roast aberdeen Angus beef fillet, tarragon mousse at Launceston Place. So I've already told you I'm not much of a beef eater, but here I am eating beef twice in one day. This was some of the best beef I've ever had. Really flavorful and rich, but sliced so perfectly and cooked to just about medium rare as to make it a very light dish, particularly when paired with the tarragon mousse. Leigh got to have a nice long chat with Tristan Welch here, while Jen, Justine and I stole some ice cream from Chicago-born sommelier Mickey.

 #1. Tiger prawns with a spicy mayonnaise alongside little cubes of mango and Thai basil at Kai. Kai is one of those restaurants that wasn't anywhere on my radar, but now it's a "must visit." I thought this was one of the more inventive dishes I tried at Taste of London. Awesome textures--crunchy prawn, soft mango, sharp basil. And again, super summery and light. (Photo came out quite nicely, didn't it? This is the only photo I didn't take with my phone.)

I have to send a huge thanks to Chris from Cheese & Biscuits who passed The Guardian's Word of Mouth invite on to me. And to Suse, the editor of Word of Mouth, for organizing everything. My only regret was not getting there sooner so I could meet everyone--by the time I got to the park, it was 3 p.m. (I had a brunch to go to in Blackheath beforehadn.) And I was also a bit sad that I didn't have an iPhone because it was really difficult, if not imposible, to follow the #tastefringe hash tag throughout the day, so I missed out on some of the communal fun.

In short, if you're around today, get yourself to Taste of London, and follow #tastefringe on Twitter.

God I Love Spain

Depintxos
Calle Castello 115
28006 Madrid

Date of Last Visit: Monday, June 8, 2009

The Victims: Many

The Damage: No idea. My colleagues paid.

The Verdict: This is just a little chain. It's nothing special, really. But why do places like this exist in Madrid but not London? (I can't vouch for the food. We just had drinks and lovely roasted peanuts.) I'd go back here for after-work drinks and snacks again.